Akwaaba to Ghana: Week 1

By Matthew Hebert

 

This past week in Ghana has felt like a wild lucid dream and it now seems like ages since I was out with friends back home in Winnipeg. Flying here was one hell of a trip and after 4 different airports, 3 continents, 27 hours of travelling time, absolutely no sleep, a couple of malaria pills, 6 beers, and 4 plastic plane meals, I was finally in Accra. Immediately upon stepping off the plane and onto the tarmac I was hit with a sensational wave of heat and humidity. This wave filled me with a great sense of joy as 27 hours earlier I was dealing with the current low of Winnipeg which was a staggering -41 degrees Celsius with wind chill. I had been dabbling in hot yoga for the month before my departure and the temperature in a moksha hot yoga practice room pretty well sums up the temperature here. The amount of perspiration my body has been engaging in is outrageous and the first time I participated in sport I had sweat pouring rapidly from every sweat gland of my body in what seemed like unhealthy amounts. Drinking enough water in this country to prevent from dehydration is a daily battle and one that I have not always been winning, especially while participating in sport or, in the consumption of alcohol. A very popular topic of conversation amongst the mates in our dorm is the colour of one’s piss and the viscosity of one’s defecations. When “clear” and “solid” are the adjectives used to describe one’s excrements, you know you’ve had a good day! Toilet paper is something that you are going to want to bring with you when you first arrive in Ghana as I have not seen wipes in any of the washrooms I’ve used which also include the University Hostel washrooms. There is plenty of the stuff to be found around the markets and shops for purchase but, you are going to want to pack some in your suitcase for the first night.

Weather and washroom conditions here in Ghana are not the only things bringing your attention to the fact that you are in Africa. Driving anywhere is mayhem compared to my Western background and I’m still wide eyed and white knuckled any time I’m in vehicle for more than 30 seconds. For starters, there is an awful lot of honking which is really just a way of letting the drivers around you know that someone is there. However, I feel as though that sometimes the honking is a bit excessive and it is not uncommon for there to be at least a dozen honks from our taxi driver in under a minute. The police do not seem to enforce traffic violations very heavily here and there is certainly no speed or red light cameras which allow for drivers to make up their own rules. Stop lights, even when working, are pretty much a free for all and everyone on the road seems to accept this. Herds of goats wandering throughout traffic are not an uncommon sight and in between driving lanes there are always crowds of people trying to sell you something. Common items for sale are small 500ml sachets of water, plantain crisps, phone cards, candies, belts, sunglasses and Ghanaian flags. It was slightly intimidating at first when these people would come right up to your rolled down window and stare at you while pointing to their item of sale, but after a while I have found the convenience of getting a drink or a snack quite humorous.

Apart from weather, washrooms, and driving the other major difference in culture here is the people. Before arriving in Ghana I had heard from many sources that Ghanaians are incredibly warm, friendly and operate on Ghana Time which basically means that they are never in a rush for anything. While in many ways this is true, it is often difficult to know who is actually genuine and who just wants your money. On the street it seems that everyone sees you as a white ATM machine and people will very often rush up to you, shake your hand, ask for your name and where you’re from, and at some point proceed to try to take you somewhere to see their work or offer a service of some kind. Please let it be clear that not everyone on the streets are like this and that some are just curious and genuinely do want to be your friend, but as I mentioned earlier, it can be hard to distinguish who’s who. On the other hand, the fine people of Ghana at the University campus are an exception to this “hard to distinguish genuineness rule” and everyone including Phebe, Victoria, Akua, David, Ebenezer, Chief, Jeremy, Danny and Peter are outstanding and I believe are truly interested in creating a good relationship with no other hidden agenda. “Akwaaba” is a very popular phrase which means “welcome” and I honestly do feel welcome in this country and at this University.  

I am not sure what the future holds for me, as none of us with life in our breath really do, but I can be certain that I am going to make the most of it.

Peace be with you all.  


- Reposted from Matt's blog - http://www.umheber9.blogspot.com/
Matt is on exchange here at UG from the University of Manitoba, Canada